Chaincase chain rubbing housing JD 400

[Curlymurt]

Sorry for those of you who have already seen me post about this in my project thread, but I wanted to specifically address the issue.

The chain in the chaincase rubs the inside of the housing. I assume there's a spacer bc the nut on the shaft seems to be where it should based on the cotter pin.

I'm clueless on where to start looking for the issue. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Sled is a '72 400 with a 102c comet clutch and original white drivers.

[Matt]

Could be bottom gear be missing a spacer? If you had been replacing bearings, maybe you installed one with the shoulder facing the wrong direction?

[Curlymurt]

Could be bottom gear be missing a spacer? If you had been replacing bearings, maybe you installed one with the shoulder facing the wrong direction?

I haven't done anything with it, but I'll check into that. Thanks Matt!

[Matt]

Then I would look for a failed bearing.

[Curlymurt]

I just realized I've been saying 'crankcase' instead of chain case... whoops.

Nonetheless, can someone show me a photo of the "flangette" or locking flanges on their sled?

I ask because of this warning concerning the two locking flanges on the secondary shaft. I wonder if this was put back correctly... I just don't know what correctly is supposed to be bc the PDF doesn't show much detail anymore.

Here's what it looks like behind my chain gears. When they are seated, the gears almost appear to not fit the shaft correctly.

[Matt]

Here's the page from the parts manual. It does not show which way the bearings should face but it does show a spacer between the bearing and gear on the inside of the case, which it looks like you are missing. And the bearing shoulder should probably be pointing toward the brake drum instead of in. Someone clearly replaced that bearing recently, so maybe they put it in backwards, and didn't have room for the right spacer because of that.

[Matt]

When you flip that bearing over and put in the spacer, make sure you take out the secondary bolt so that the shaft is able to move over when you tighten the gear retaining bolt.

[Curlymurt]

To be perfectly honest, I wanted nothing to do with removing the chains, chaincase, or any part of the drivetrain until I was ready to replace the primary drivers for the track. With the reality setting in that this isn't a project I can consider out of sight, out of mind, I've pulled the sheaves and shaft... I did it without breaking open the chaincase, but towards the end of removal, I dropped the chain and gears into the bottom of the case. At least they are getting a good oil bath.

Matt, even though I didn't really know what you were meaning with some of your explanations, your help has been instrumental, so thank you. Now that it's apart, I actually understand it and it makes perfect sense. Frankly, it was so filthy (and I've never seen it assembled correctly) that I didn't even know how the flanges worked in relation to the bearings.

I'll post in the classified a new list of parts I need for this. Off the top of my head, I'll need a spacer, bearing, and gaskets before this can go back together.

I'm assuming the shaft isn't supposed to have ribs in it.

[Matt]

Actually it looks like that spacer is still available from John Deere. The bearing is too. Spacer p/n subbed to H147956. Bearing JD 9217. I have the cork gaskets in the New Breed parts store and the bearing too (.750 ID)

[JDT]

That shaft looks like it needs to be replaced or repaired.

[Curlymurt]

Actually it looks like that spacer is still available from John Deere. The bearing is too. Spacer p/n subbed to H147956. Bearing JD 9217. I have the cork gaskets in the New Breed parts store and the bearing too (.750 ID)

I've actually got the cork coming from New Breed, and the o ring, bearing, and spacer I picked up from the local Deere today (ordered a couple days ago).

I'm getting excited to get this thing back together. It's nice to have the chaincase figured out... Hopefully. We'll see how it goes back together since I didn't have space for a spacer, so I'm banking on the hope that the bearing was backwards.

I've got the sled painted and the hood. I ended up having to strip all the paint from the hood and redoing it bc the clear coat spray stuff peeled the paint right off like a stripper. Maybe I didn't prime well enough originally, so I'm just sticking with a rattle can paint and that's it. Maybe a little wax to help protect it slightly.

The hood was much smoother of a finish the first time I painted but the paint wasn't a consistent sheen. After the stripping the hood has more imperfections but the sheen is even, so because it's a rider, I'll take it.

I'm getting so excited to get this thing back together!

[Curlymurt]

That shaft looks like it needs to be replaced or repaired.

I'm going to see how it goes for now, I think. It appears to be straight, just a little marred from the incorrect installation. If it leaks oil everywhere, I'll start sourcing one.

[Curlymurt]

Does anyone know how long this shaft is supposed to be? As suspected, this still doesn't seem to work with all the new parts. I'm just wondering if it's even the correct shaft.

As the photos show, even with the bearings facing the correct direction, I can't get enough space for the spacer. I'm missing only one of two washers (apparently) that goes on the right end of the shaft outside of the spacer washer. Either way, that still doesn't give me enough space with this spacer. The bearing nearest the chain can't scoot over towards the brake wheel due to the ribs (aka, bearing surfaces) on the shaft.

[Matt]

The bearing nearest the chain can't scoot over towards the brake wheel due to the ribs (aka, bearing surfaces) on the shaft.

That seems like the problem then I would think. So if you take the secondary clutch back off, you can't tap the shaft more the chain case side?

If you hold the upper gear in place on that partial shaft against the spacer, is the chain perfectly vertical then?

[Matt]

Also, that shaft should not be sticking out past the end of the secondary like it is, so it's definitely too far over.