ring gear hub

[rkchainsaw]

I'm working on the 73 JDX4 project and I am stuck trying to get the ring gear hub off. I have a puller on it, but it ain't moving. I don't want to really reef on it yet until I know it's safe.I realize this hub has been on the machine for 37 years, but can it be that stuck. There is a little rust around the edges. Am I missing something. I have the manual and I think I have everything covered. Any hints or ideas.

[rkchainsaw]

I just read a past post on using stainless steel bolts on the puller for taking off the ring gear hub. Why would ss bolts work better than grade 5 bolts?

[400brian]

I don't think I have ever saw a Kohler with e-start on it, so I will have to dig out the service manual to get up to speed, but isn't the ring gear mounted behind the clutch on these? Is the hub still on the crank? I can't tell by the photo.

[400brian]

Ok, I looked in the Service Manual, and in the parts book.

The service manual shows them pulling this hub with a what I would call a harmonic balancer puller. I would probably put something like a short 7/16" bolt in the crank to prevent messing up the end. A quick look at a bolt yield chart tells me that it takes a high quality Stainless bolt to equal a grade 5 normal bolt, so I don't think there is anything to be gained there.

Show us your puller set up, so we have more of an idea what you have going on.

I would probably use a bit of heat if it is really stubborn, obviously you don't want to break the thing, so some care must be used in how you approach this. If I understand this correctly, this hub is solely a press fit. I can't help but wonder if it was installed with Locktite? If so, heat may be the only way to remove it.

[rkchainsaw]

Thanks Brian,
I will get you some photos. I do have a harmonic balance puller on it now and I have the end with a piece of flat steel covering the end of the crank. So I do not think that the crank s being compromised. I did pull out the propane torch, but I needed a little more reassurance before I used it. I also understand that I have to be careful using it. I sure do appreciate the info.
Randy

[rkchainsaw]

Brian,
Here is the picture of the puller setup.

[400brian]

Looks like a good set-up to me. As long as you have your puller bolts well threaded into the hub, I don't know what you would improve.

If anyone has first hand experience in pulling this hub, now would be the time to speak up!

The only Kohler I have ever messed with is the Spitfire I have recently tore down. I believe it is the same crankshaft, for all that is worth.

I would polish off any rust I could get at with 400 grit. I just cleaned up that hub area on my crank last night. About half the diameter was rusty, and the 400 cleaned it up nicely.

You can try heating the hub with a propane torch, but my guess is it will take an oxy/acetylene torch to heat it up fast and hot enough. You are going to replace the seals on this anyway I assume, so cooking the seal is not an issue. Just don't melt the bearing behind it or the aluminum case.

I don't think it is very common to find a Kohler with e-start on it, so I am afraid you are pretty much on your own here.

BTW, what did you pull the clutch with? I have Salsbury puller, but it is out on loan to a guy on this list. I didn't see one on a quick on-line search.

[rkchainsaw]

Brian,
I have read some other posts regarding getting the hub off with some heat. I can't remember who did it, but someone mentioned using a small butane torch. So I thought that the propane would work. I don't have direct access to oxygen/acetylene. I'll give propane a try and if no luck I'll try and search out a torch kit.
I thought the same thing that i don't have to worry about the seal, cuz that'll be replaced.
I made my clutch puller by modifying a club car golf cart puller.
Thanks for all the info. I'll let you know when it's off
Randy

[400brian]

On the Salsbury puller question, I did find this.

[https://www.ebay.com/itm/8000-1010-Clut ... SwjmRcOjl3][/url]

The 1010 puller is also listed in an old Central catalog as working on Dusters as well.

The one I have had for years works perfectly on the small model 780 Salsbury on the 300s, 72 and 73 400. I have never had a 910 ( 72 and 3 500 ) to try it on, but on the 73 X8 I had to drop a short bolt in the crank to give it something to push against as it doesn't have enough reach otherwise.

I don't know if this tool is exactly like the one I have. It is however relatively cheap. The 2 piece tool for sale for the Duster is going for closer to $50.

[rkchainsaw]

Well it's off. I applied a little heat with the propane and it slowly started to slide off. Now I will start looking for the seals to replace. Thanks for the help.

[400brian]

Great!

I believe Matt has the seals here at his New Breed store.

https://newbreedparts.com/pages/crank-s ... tion-chart

On the Kioritz engines, the seals have the size displayed right on the face of the seal, so there is no confusion. But on the Spitfire Kohler I am working on, there are no numbers on the seals.

[rkchainsaw]

It appears that the same seal fits on both ends.

[rkchainsaw]

Whoops my bad....I guess it looks like they are 2 different seals.

[400brian]

Pretty sure they are different. 2 different numbers in the parts book. On the Spitfire Kohler, they are different in both OD, and ID. On the Kioritz engines they just differ in ID.