80 Liquidfire engine removal & stuff

beechjetdude · Post by **beechjetdude** » Mon Dec 26, 2005 4:06 pm

Well I finally decided that since my 72 400 is running great and my 76 Liquid 440 is tops. That I would start on the 80 Liquidfire. Well I have the TM but it is faque on how to remove the engine. When I look at it, the clutch seems to be the item that has to be removed in order to get the engine out. Is this true, or does someone have a different idea? Even if I were to pull the clutch, there doesnt seem to be any room to pull it out. If someone has done this before please give me your advice. I need to tear it down completely to put all new seals and gaskets in it. I think I have an air leak. Plus would anyone know where I can get my water pump and oil pump rebuilt, if anyone has a NOS of either I can get? Thanks. :ph43r:

400Chris · Post by **400Chris** » Mon Dec 26, 2005 6:35 pm

Which Tech Manual are you referencing? TM-1217 outlines the procedure. Clutch removal is step 6.

The hood, muffler, oil tank, carbs, and radiator support have to be removed.

The cable to the oil pump needs to be removed.

Choke cable removed from the dash.

The cooling system plumbing has to be disconnected.

The speedometer cable and wiring harness needs to be disconnected.

Then there are 4 mounting bolts on each side of the engine holding it in the sled if I recall.

Don't forget to tie a knot in the starter rope or do something to keep the rope from going all the way in the cup.

Your oil pump shouldn't need to be rebuilt. Those were pretty much bulletproof. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think those were rebuildable.

Chris

It's weird having newbie under my name now.

shelby · Post by **shelby** » Mon Dec 26, 2005 6:44 pm

.......Yes you need to remove the clutch to remove the engine, I bought a 102C Comet clutch puller, and it has always worked well, I don't know what other pullers will work, if any.
A friend of mine built his own puller, just make sure and have a bolt that is the same thread as the inside of your clutch.......S

shelby · Post by **shelby** » Mon Dec 26, 2005 6:51 pm

.......I forgot.....you must pop out the little plastic plug that is directly below the bumper in the plastic side panel, directly in line with the clutch bolt, the plug might all ready be gone, with this plug out....you will have room to screw the clutch puller in, and with a little luck it should pop off without too much trouble, do not use an impact when removing the clutch, as this could cause crank problems, So I have been told...S

beechjetdude · Post by **beechjetdude** » Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:12 pm

The manual I have is the TM 1217. I got it off the internet. It seemed to skip the part of the clutch. I thank you a bunch. Now I will have to find a clutch puller and get to work. I will let you know what happens....lol.

B)

shelby · Post by **shelby** » Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:25 pm

........In Regards to finding a 102 C Comet puller, if you have a local Arctic Cat Dealership, try talking with them, the 1980 El Tigre 6000 used a 1 1/4 102 C Comet clutch and they may have a puller kicking around, the 81 El Tigre has 1 3/8 Comet as well, it likely used a modifyed version of the same puller......and if not, you can probably get a new one from Comet themselves or from a Comet clutch distributor, just look up Comet Industries in Indiana....S

400Chris · Post by **400Chris** » Mon Dec 26, 2005 10:30 pm

Engine removal is covered on pages 20-10-01 and 20-10-02.

And, the manual does say to remove the clutch with an impact wrench. There is enough room on the belly pan for the clutch to pop off the end of the crank and remove it.

I also have to make a correction to my earlier post: There are 2 bolts holding the engine in place on the starter side, not 4.

Chris

shelby · Post by **shelby** » Mon Dec 26, 2005 11:10 pm

.....The manual suggests an impact!!!! ......O.K.......maybe this rumor was in regards to a three cyl crank, I just started using a half inch drive ratchett, just to be on the safe side when doing removal, I started fooling with Polaris triples after my John Deere days........learned some very expensive lessons.......I still have my 600.....(it goes like hell)........but one gets very tired of the 5 gallons of premium fuel it takes to go for a short ride......the J.D. is more econimical by far

400Chris · Post by **400Chris** » Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:06 am

Just testing.

jrambler · Post by **jrambler** » Tue Dec 27, 2005 9:21 pm

Looks like you got the clutch off!! That was toughest thing when I pulled my Liguifire engine. The threads on my clutch were gone. Previous owner tried to us a gear puller and some other combination of tools. Guess he gave up and sold the sled.

Had to drill and tap the clutch while on the sled and then make my own puller. That was satisfying when it finally popped off, but a bunch of work.

The folks on this site were helpful during this process.

Get the right puller!!!

400Chris · Post by **400Chris** » Tue Dec 27, 2005 9:52 pm

The right tools for the job cannot be emphasized enough, no matter what the task is.

The Comet 108 on that Liquifire popped right off with a Comet puller from Dennis Kirk, and a heavy duty impact wrench. In instances like that, I'm a firm believer in not going cheap with tools.

Chris

beechjetdude · Post by **beechjetdude** » Tue Dec 27, 2005 11:34 pm

well I dont know what gives it took a 3/4 bolt with fine thread to make the clutch come off! So much for 9/16 threads (jokin). I am missing those two pages out of the manual that I have, but I am on " the road again" da da ......lol thanks for you guys help..... I am wondering why the difference in the thread size from one suggestion..... the clutch is marked john deere comet 102c.....