Liquifire Decals

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 1:28 am

Where can I get 2 sets of 1976 Liquifire decals. I picked up a 440 today to go with my 340, I need to redo the hood on my 340 and figured I should kill two birds with one stone and fix both wile I am at it.

On a second note does any one have tips for someone who has never done fiberglass before and has a lot to do.

bpmailman · Post by **bpmailman** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 9:03 am

Public library, cheap book about body work , made in the seventy's. I'll see if I can find the name for ya.

Found it Peterson's Basic Bodywork and Painting

there is a section on fiberglass fundamentals.

Get out the metal flake paint and put some flares on your chevy van

Mike

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:27 am

Rich,

A friend has the manual that Don gave to me a wile back so which decals are you missing? I could make do with just the hood decals for now.

JoeRainville · Post by **JoeRainville** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:42 am

Kyle,

Frank Sadlon is making reproduction sets for the 76-77 LF's.

-Rainville

B)

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 11:45 am

Cool, and the name is Scott Kyle. Just for the record, it is a pain to have 2 first names.

Do you have an email or someway to contact him?

Scott

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 2:23 pm

Found him.

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Tue Feb 05, 2008 2:34 pm

Is $124 the going rate for set of decals? If I am going to put out that much I think I should try to go all the way and redo the whole sled.

Liquifire 4/6 · Post by **Liquifire 4/6** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 12:27 am

Scott, the best tip I can give you for fibreglass repair is to buy a whole box full of good quality disposable rubber gloves before you ever open a can of resin. The work itself is pretty simple, if somewhat tedious and messy. Grind down the cracked areas, bevel the cracks (sometimes it's beneficial to drill a series of small holes along the cracked areas to allow the fibreglass repair to get a better grip on the surfaces), make sure the surfaces are very clean before applying repair, .....pre-cut up a whole bunch of fibreglass cloth or matting in appropriate sizes to repair the cracks, mix up some resin and hardener, then saturate the cloth pieces with the resin mixture and apply to the broken areas. You might have to do it a few times to get enough strength. Try to get the air pockets smoothed out of the resin and cloth before it starts to cure. I have a fibreglass roller for this that kinda helps. Allow it to cure for sufficient time before sanding down (cure time depends on amount of hardener used as well as the temperature, but count on a good day). Then apply a good body filler and sand that down once it's good and hard. It might be necessary to repeat a couple times. Then to take care of tiny imperfections, apply some glazing & spot putty. That stuff cures fairly quickly and sands easily. Once your satisfied with the finish, prime it and you may find you still need to do a bit more work as the primer will bring out some imperfections. Try to do all the work at room temp in a well ventilated area. Use a good respirator to avoid breathing in the fibreglass dust when sanding. There are some plastic repair products that are easier to work with than fibreglass resin and still work great for repairing fibreglass. I like a product called Fusor.

By the way Scott, are you from Letallier? The reason I ask is that I see you have a few Sno Cruisers and I've sold several of them to a guy from Letallier in the past few years.

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:09 am

I am in the Boissevain area during the warmer months and on the weekends, and I spend the week in Winnipeg. I just got into cruisers this summer, I got the 67 then I dug the 69 out of a snow drift in Ellie and when the weather warms I have to go pick up to 1970 parts sleds.

This might be a foolish question but, the fiberglass repair goes on the back of the hood and then fix the front with bondo, or do I fiberglass both sides and then sand the front smooth? I think I should go to the library and get a book on the subject.

Next time I am out to the farm I will throw some picks of the damage up, The hood on the 440 is not to bad but the other two hoods have major damage.

Liquifire 4/6 · Post by **Liquifire 4/6** » Wed Feb 06, 2008 9:00 am

I'm no pro at fibreglass repair, Scott. I just learned what I know from necessity as there were alot of trees around here that would suddenly jump out on the trail when I began snowmobiling. I've always applied the fibreglass repair to both the inner and outer surfaces of the hood. I've seen others repair only the inner surface and just use filler on the outside, however I think that's just being lazy. Also, I forgot to mention that I usually use a fibreglass reinforced filler rather than just the regular Bondo filler. It's not quite as nice to sand, but offers a fair bit more strength. I use the firbeglass reinforced stuff at least for the first coat of filler, sometimes I'll use the standard stuff for the finishing coat.

qwerty · Post by **qwerty** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 6:43 pm

im not sure how your machine is constructed but if it is a high tec injection moulded plastic then fiberglass repairs will not last 5 minutes. find out for sure. if it is fiberglass i would recommend useing epoxy resin, it is 5 times the cost but 10 times the strength of polyester resin. snowmobiles seem to put a lot of stress on a repair. check out the boating websites/forums, those guys are fiberglass experts.

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:59 pm

The service manual I have states that the hood and console are fiberglass. I dont think the hoods were plastic untill 1980.

jdsledfarm · Post by **jdsledfarm** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 9:52 am

What you can get, IS the going rate. There are no competitors. Good luck! Fiberglass sucks!

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:43 pm

Here are some pics of the damage.

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Fri Feb 08, 2008 10:44 pm

anouther