X8 problem

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 1:10 pm

Found a problem. The sled is not running on the left cylinder or clutch side only. The right side is running. I took a pic of the plugs and hear they are from left to right as they sit in the sled. Both plugs visually have equal spark, I wonder if I dont have a bad crank seal?

This is really crazy, the sled appeared to be running smooth, the jerk has to be from the left side coming to life intermittently.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 2:26 pm

Anybody have good place to get crank seals for my X8 and a part number?

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:30 pm

Carb cleaner was being used in the past.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:31 am

Fellow brothers of the JD clan..........Its time to start twisting the wrenches on the X8, cranks seals are in and the clutch puller is also in from DK.

Puller question: The one I was making and the one I recieved from DK are not the same dimensionally

:unsure: The part# from DK is 28-464, its about 7-8 inches long and its sitting here brandnew ready to go.
The puller I got my drawings from was from mfgsupply and it is part #725-023, this puller is 11inches long. What puller do I need?

:unsure: They look very different.

Another question, when installing these new seals, how do they remove/install, do they remove easy and installation how easy is that?

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 4:09 am

The one you got from DK is the one listed for Comets. Carefully screw it in and see how it looks and feels, I would think you should be able to tell if it isn't right.

About the seals, I don't have my manual in front of me, it is over at the shop, So I'm not going to comment on that except to say use some care in prying the old one out, aluminum is soft.

JDXsand00s · Post by **JDXsand00s** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:28 am

do you plan on changing the seals with the crankcase still together? i've never tried this, i always tear off the bottem half and the seals slide right off. here is a question about seals, do you oil them before installation? good luck with your x8.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 12:54 pm

I plan on doing the install with the motor still in the sled. I would think a light coating of grease on the seal would help with the break in. I am unsure though and still need more help on this.

Once someone can give me a good walk through on this I will post pictures of this step by step.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 6:07 pm

Paul

If no one else does, I'll get the SM here later tonight and quote the proceedure from the book. I know the book says that the PTO side can be changed without taking anything else apart. STP is the lube suggested, but that is from memory. They show installing the seal with a drilled hardwood block.
I do not know if the mag side can be replaced like this as well. Certainly the stator would have to pulled off, but the book makes no mention, I'll look again.

later

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Wed Feb 01, 2006 9:54 pm

Ok Brian, waiting for your response. Thanks.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 2:47 am

Paul

Rich gave you the proceedure right from the book.

In the engine rebuild section, they mention wrapping tape around the crank in the area of the keyway, to protect the seal as you slide it on the crank, wouldn't hurt.

I've asked the mag side seal question a couple of times on the list, and never got an answer.

The engines used in '72 have a retainer outboard of the seals that require splitting the case to remove and replace either seal.

On the '73 on up CCWs, it appears that there is nothing preventing you from replacing both seals without splitting the case. As Rich points out, it requires more work than the pto end, but splitting the case requires the engine to be removed from the sled, with all that entails.

In my humble opinion, replacing both seals on a 33 year old 2 stroke is good preventative maintenance. I'd be tempted to try it without splitting the case, let sleeping dogs lie as it may.

But, you will have to decide that.
Do you want to pull the flywheel and stator off, or do you want to pull the engine out and take the lower case off.

If you try it, you can add to the base of knowledge of the group!

Good luck

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 3:57 am

I am planning on starting this project Saturday morning. gotta get her running hopefully good before the snow hits Monday.

I understand the PTO end, similar to installing a front main seal on a timing chain cover on a automotive engine.

The mag side will probably have to wait, I do believe I need another puller to remove the flywheel correct?

I am also a little skeptical on the points setup and stator removal, I understand how to set them but the instructions that Deere gave out on this I feel is very poor and might be improved by "Danzig" style once I decide to do it, who knows I may dive into that this weekend also. But it does scare the crap out of me right now thinking about it.

I will post step by step pictures as I do this may be it can be added to my first FAQ post...........EH Matt? :wacko:

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 4:11 am

Oh, you haven't lived until you've pulled your flywheel off!

Yes, you will need a heavy duty steering wheel or harmonic balancer puller.
The type that allows three bolts to screw into the flywheel, metric of course.
You need to look at those points anyway.

I understand if you might want to hold off until the off season for the mag end, if there is no apparent pressing need.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 4:17 am

thanks for the confidence booster on the Mag side Brian, I may load this thing up and bring it to your house when i decide to do this............If I had nails they would be chewed off.

Removal of the flywheel is brutal I take it?

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 12:12 pm

A fair number of guys have fought with their flywheels. The one on my 340/5 slid off with no problem last winter. A good puller will help, do not pull from the ring gear.
Oh yeah, to remove the flywheel, the end housing of the engine ( some have called it the bell housing ) has to be removed.

tipitup · Post by **tipitup** » Thu Feb 02, 2006 6:45 pm

I was able to get the flywheel off of my 80 sporty with a harmonic balancer puller, but can not get my clutch off, so I can't replace seals anyway!!!!!! The flywheel did take some work, but did come off.