Powder coating

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 2:17 am

I'm making plans for my big summer project, my 77 440 LF. The tunnel is just about shot, I picked up a real straight 77 LF chassis (friend pulled it out of the town dump
:eek: ). I am going to swap components/ spare parts into this tunnel and build a restored rider.

Now to the point, I was talking to a friend that does body work, powder coating, etc. He said he would make me a good deal if I bring the parts prepped to him for powder coating. I am thinking skid, leafs, skis, springs and what ever else looks like it would work. What are some opinions on powder coating sled components.

Scott

wycrumb · Post by **wycrumb** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 2:40 am

I get stuff powder coated free where i work, anything metal can be coated where i work as they go through a 450 deg. oven to cure the paint, all the parts come out shiny, smooth, and it isn't a super thick coating either although very tough. Had my hood hinge done and it moves jest as freely as before it was painted. They also acid dip the parts, excluding aluminum ones b/c the acid would eat the aluminum. hope this help some.

Dakota Boy · Post by **Dakota Boy** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:58 am

It is my understanding that anything that flexes significantly is not a good candidate for powdercoating. I had a bunch of bogie arm brackets and stuff beadblasted and powdercoated, but the guy only blasted the springs, and didnt coat them because he said it would crack and come off when the springs went thru thier range of motion.

The parts that were blasted AND powdercoated came back looking like brand new, and it is super-durable.

ChickenRat · Post by **ChickenRat** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:18 am

Scott,

I have powdercoated many parts of my sleds and have also ceramic coated the exhaust pipes. Powdercoating won't stand the high temps the exhaust puts out and high temp paint will come off if the pipe gets hot and then water/snow comes in contact with it. I have been happy with my powdercoating adventures and it is certainly cheaper than having the parts painted. Many color options as well. A downside is that after the parts are blasted and powdercoated, you can see any rust pits that are there. I don't think you can get away from this. The parts look great, but don't expect a complete brand new appearance as it just won't happen. The sleds that I have had powdercoated have held up pretty well but on the flipside, the sleds I powdercoat, I usually don't drive that much or at all. Here is a suspension before and after powdercoating.

Robb

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Post by **WinnipegStPaul9** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:55 am

I'm a advocate of powder coating. At least in NE Indiana it's not cheap but it holds up so much better than paint. Robb is correct about imperfections showing through. I did powder coat a muffler once (that was a free job) and again Robb is dead on. It doesn't hold. I'm not sure I'd go to the expense of ceramic coating but it would really look nice and should hold up well. One thing I have never powder coated is a suspension. Robb's looks great but I don't know how much of it is seen. I tend to stay with items that are easily visable. Just my .02 worth. DA

S_Kyle · Post by **S_Kyle** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:07 pm

My concern was if I did the skis/leafs that the powder coat would flake/ wear off and I would end up painting them anyways.

crash · Post by **crash** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:10 pm

I had my skis & leafs powder coated a few years ago, still look good. Id do it again.

JD600 · Post by **JD600** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:51 pm

What about coating steel centered bogie wheels?

Do the bearings and "tires" need removed?

wycrumb · Post by **wycrumb** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 2:21 pm

They would need to be removed or they would melt in the curing oven (450 deg.), only metals for the most part.

ChickenRat · Post by **ChickenRat** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 3:09 pm

I've had parts powdercoated with the rubber left on. I knew it was a risk going in but in my particular case, everything turned out just fine. If you are going to try it, be prepared that you may ruin your parts. I have a guy here in MN that will blast and coat things pretty cheaply for me. An example is he'll do my skiis, leaf springs, mounts, spindles, ....sand blast and coat for a little over $30. My own time and expense would greatly exeed that so it's not worth it for me to do myself. And as Don says, it may be excessive to powdercoat the rear suspensions but I have only done that on my rare birds that I don't drive like my '82 Sprintfires & '82 Snowfire. As far as durability, no matter what you use........paint or powdercoat they are going to get scratched and then rust will follow. There's just no way of getting around it unless the sled sits on a shelf it's whole life.
Something I haven't tried yet is to see how a powdercoat will stick to aluminum. I'm thinking about doing a couple of tunnels but don't know if there will be an issue with adhesion on aluminum so I've been a little hesitant.

Robb

wycrumb · Post by **wycrumb** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:16 pm

I work at Crary Mfg. in West Fargo ND, for you Ag guys, we make the air reel, cyclone vine chopper, and big top hopper extensions. We powder coat aluminum tubes for the air reels and it works just as good as the steel tubes. I would not be afraid to coat aluminum, in fact I am working on a top secret project that you will all see within a couple months, it will be powder coated aluminum JD green.

DLDeere · Post by **DLDeere** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:17 pm

Remove hyfax from slide suspensions before powder coating. I just had a suspension done for a 295/S and didn't even think about the hyfax. They melted!

DLDeere · Post by **DLDeere** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:17 pm

Wyatt,
Will Crary do powder coating for others?

Howard

wycrumb · Post by **wycrumb** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 12:46 am

E-mailed you Howard