Machining '80 Liq For Electric Start

A1 SLEDER JIM · Post by **A1 SLEDER JIM** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:16 pm

here is how i do it. a productive sat afternoon. now it is user freindly for this old guy.

bob15 · Post by **bob15** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 3:29 pm

Very nice job done. If you don't mind, I would like a add a couple things for anyone interested in doing this.

When drilling the hole for the starter, use the crankcase "split" for a centerline. Measure across fully, divide by two and you now have the spot on the center line for for center punch. Drill a small pilot hole from the outside (opposit your pic) and now you are dead nuts in the middle for the hole saw mandrel.

When tapping the bolts for the starter mounting, do one bolt first, drill tap tap then mount and lossely bolt the starter in place, now center punch for the second bolt hole. This way it gives a little amount of give for not being completely centered. Also instead of using metric tap, a 1/4-28 will also work. Remember to use 1/4-28 bolts. Reason I say that is many people might not have a metric tap set. If my memory serves me, I also believe I drilled straight through the casing which aids in tapping and allow for a slightly longer bolt use.

Another thought that could be mentioned is that any ring gear off a Kawi engine can be added to the LF's flywheel for the starter to engage. Lightly tap off the gear from a different flywheel and tap it onto the 80's flywheel until it is flush on the edge. Just remember that once the flwheel is mounted and everything is bolted back together, you can no longer "just remove the flywheel"; the engine must now be pulled.

Again sorry if you think I overtook you post, I just wanted to add a couple things I've learned from doing a half dozen Liquifires that might help other.

bob

A1 SLEDER JIM · Post by **A1 SLEDER JIM** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 6:11 pm

i like comments. you do not need to measure and divide. just remove the hole saw drill bit and use a 2 3/8" hole saw. then start from the inside it just fits exactly and drill out. There are comments that go with the slideshow pix . when you at the photobucket site on the right is view all the picure there you can see the comments on each pix.

i was going to start a thread on the stators and flywheels too. i got all kinds and found out alot with them. too. I like to keep the engine metric but any thread will work. 1/4-28 are not to common as 1/4-20 but. and i did note a thru hole like you said as you know you can't drilll once you start to tap.

i recently got a hold on a '82 motor and did all the coping from there. that is when the flywheels came into play like you said any kawi ring gaer can work. i press them off then get them cut down like on a donor one i got then do not forget the pin some are pinned twice.

bob15 · Post by **bob15** » Sun Mar 29, 2009 7:31 pm

The reason I had chosen the 1/4-28 over the 1/4-20 was to have as many threads in the housing as possible. I know it isn't a lot more, but to me it was worth it, not to mention I already had the tap & bolts.

Again very nice job in setting up a pic-by-pic of how to do it.
bob

jdsnowfire · Post by **jdsnowfire** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:32 pm

what is the brand and part # of the starter you used? also where did you find the other electric start parts or did you just remove them from a different sled?

bob15 · Post by **bob15** » Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:59 pm

My starters are Hitashi and would come off of any Kawi-powered Deere. The starters would also have come from Kawi-powered Cats. I found most of mine on E-bay.

Not sure of the part number at this moment, next time I'm in my barn and if I remember, I'll look.

bob