those dang bogie wheels again

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 2:13 am

See below.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 2:29 am

In my ongoing preoccupation with bogie wheels, the search for a good subsittute for the small wheels used on the 340S continues.

In the upper left, is the original aluminum center wheel, 5 - 5/8" dia. with a 5/8" bore. It has a tread width of 3/4", and weighs one pound.

On the right is the wheel that Joe Rainville has a supply of. It is 5 - 5/8" dia, has a 5/8" bore, has a tread width of around 7/8", and weighs a bit less than a pound and a half ( steel center ).

At the bottom is a wheel I recently acquired from the Surplus Center.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp? ... tem=1-2794
It is 5 - 5/8" dia., is steel centered with a 3/4" bore. The tread width is 3/4", and it weighs one and a half pounds. To use this wheel, the shaft will have to be sleeved up to 3/4".

Troy had some problems with the rubber on Joe's wheels failing.
These wheels would look to be another option.
The plastic wheels Kimpex had been selling are no longer available. Troy had problems with those as well.

HoosierDeereMan · Post by **HoosierDeereMan** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 7:51 am

The plastic centered Kimpex wheels melted the rubber right off the wheel. I think Don had the same problems using these on this 340/S as well. The ones from the East Beach warehouse may have just been old rubber as the rubber on the wheels totally exploded leaving only the metal center. Jon mentioned that they had trouble like this on some of their race sleds and their solution was to install high speed bearings in the idlers. The part I find puzzling is that the rear idlers are fine along with the additional outboard idlers that were installed as an upgrade kit. The pictures Brian posted are the smaller idlers which brings us back to bearing factor again. Being a smaller diameter they will turn faster, so if the bearings are questionable and heat up or can't keep up it would cause the rubber on the wheels to drag on the track heating them up until they melted or blew apart.

Brian, is the idler from Surplus center made so that the bearing can be replaced? If so, I wonder if we could find a high speed replacement bearing with a 5/8" I.D. to fit the axle shafts and the right O.D. to fit the hub of the idler?

The Surplus idler sure looks a lot like the idlers used on the factory 295/S bogie sliders.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 3:03 pm

I fear I would have to destroy a wheel to find out.

Brian Nelson said the wheels on the Dator self destructed at around 98 mph, I don't figure to need to go that fast.

They need to be tested in the field.

Dator76 · Post by **Dator76** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:17 pm

Brians talking about the 76 rubber dator wheels I'm guessing. the wheels i have for the light suspension used in 77 dator and 78 c.c. had no rubber seal in them. im not sure how they were lubed but all the bearings in the pile of my light susp. idlers are locked up as they have no lube and no seals in them.
On my 340/S wheels the steel with all the holes are fine but the factory aluminum ones the rubber is all chipped out. somebody used to carry the steel with all the holes mybe dk or machine supply.
I can build you sleeves on my lathe if you want for the oversize holes in the idler wheel from plastic or steel.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 2:49 pm

It took some trial and error, and a couple orders to Wicks Aircraft Supply, but I now have the fitment of the aftermarket wheels figured out.

I needed to put together a set for the "Make a Wish" 340S, as it was missing 2 of the original 4.

If you need the small wheels, get them bought.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 1:31 am

Here are the pieces:

Two Surplus Center bogie wheels.

A steel bushing consisting of a 6 1/4" long piece of 3/4 x .058 4130 tube.

An aluminum spacer consisting of 4 3/8" long piece of 1 x .125 6061 tube.

The first number of the description is the OD, the second is the wall thickness, the 4 digit number is the alloy.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 1:47 am

The lengths of the two tubes may be slightly different for your skid, size to fit.

You want the aluminum spacer to become tight between the wheels when you tighten the cap screws on the original 5/8" soldid steel axle. This supports the wheels, and prevents the bearings from turning on the shaft.

The tubes were cut with a hack saw. Make sure the ends of the tubes are true. Put a carpenter's square at the end of the tube, and rotate the tube. I trued my tubes, and did the final sizing with a bench belt sander.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 2:09 am

Costs:

The Surplus Center wheels are $4.95 plus shipping.

The R3/4X058-41 4130 Chromoly tubing is $3.60 per ft.

The R1X125-T6 aluminum tubing is $4.99 per ft.

One foot of each of the tubes should do one 340S, even if you do both the front of the skid and the optional wheel kit ( 4 wheels ). Less than $30, plus shipping, to install the small wheels.
( you would still need to obtain the longer 3/4" aluminum pivot shaft that the outside wheels mount on ).

The aluminum tube polishes up nicely ( not that anyone will ever see it! ) :lol22:

The tubing was obtained from Wick's Aircraft Supply. This is also where I get the rivets for the idler wheel rebuilds, and the steel tube I fabricate ski pivot bushings from. The numbers above are the actual part numbers of the tubes.

Post by **WinnipegStPaul9** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 11:52 am

Good work Bogie Meister!!!

DA

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Sat Aug 22, 2009 8:34 am

Brian is there enough clearance for the slides? Looks like the wheels are too close to the rails.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 2:04 am

It's all good Todd.
Actually, I think the hub on these wheels is just a tad thicker than the originals.

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:02 pm

You got her nailed Brian. Looks great!!