better hole shot?

grasscutter97 · Post by **grasscutter97** » Fri Mar 24, 2006 1:43 am

Been trying to follow all the race talk about carbs, and decided to do some tuning on couple deeres of my own. Starting with a bone stock 81 440 LF. Been very happy with it the last few years and am slowly getting it to be quicker and quicker off the line.

Its true...carbs need to be meticulously clean. Also noticed that keeping clutches tuned and cleaned makes a world of difference.

But now I want to get the ski's off the ground whenever I hit the throttle. Not looking for a drag racer, just for fun. Do I go back through the clutching system or the carbs? Or both?

**Side note...I have noticed on an old JD300 that I had tuned pefectly, that after I added some vintage JD trck claws to the track I had to go back through and re-adjust the carb. I assume it was because the engine was now in an extreme lean condition (at holeshot) due to the fact the track spin was eliminated by using the claws. I am planning to add studs to the LF for next winter, will I need to adjust the whole system (carbs, clutch) again??

I500 · Post by **I500** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:13 pm

Just a little suggestion on this one Grasscutter . If your looking to get a good holeshot on either of these sleds I really do need to suggest that you get these claws off your sled and either use carbides or ice picks. I personally have never seen any sled hook up on ice with these things . I tryed it once and they lasted for one pass on the ice before i removed them .
I could never reccomend claws for any reason.

As far as tuning your carbs ,gearing changes and clutching. I have come to realize that nobody can come out and tell you what you need to do to make a perfect sled . Yes there are some great suggestions . But the bottom line is that it is up to you with lots and lots of testing to see what works for you.

The odds are that you will keep trying different things and always think you can do better. I know i will . I actually have a service manual here that states that to obtain a perfectly dialed in sled it will take a lot of knowledge and a little luck.

GOOD LUCK

nitrofa340 · Post by **nitrofa340** » Tue May 02, 2006 2:36 am

Pulling the skis off the line has little to nothing to do with engine power. Its all about weight transfer and setting up the suspension. Heck, if I wanted to, I can set my suspension to hang the skis all day long with just me sitting on the sled,....not even moving.

nitrofa340 · Post by **nitrofa340** » Tue May 02, 2006 8:36 pm

Rich, your a funny guy. If you want to try "waxing" my 340 Rupp F/A with your 340S or any other 340 stocker OR mod-stocker in 500ft,......heres where you can find me next winter. I will be at Strum, WI,......Waconia, Mn.,....Waseca, Mn. and Comstock, WI. I always enjoy and respect good competition.
I stand behind the information in my previous post. Ski lift has NOTHING to do with engine power and EVERYTHING to do with suspension set-up.

nitrofa340 · Post by **nitrofa340** » Wed May 03, 2006 8:55 am

It sounds like all he is looking to do is hang the skis for fun,.....not dial in 60 ft times. If that is the case, I would suggest playing with the suspension for maximum weight transfer and not get too specific on carburation and clutching.
By the way, I did NOT mean to "dis" your 340S. I think those are awesome little sleds with great pontential. Although I am a Rupp guy, I read this board everyday. If I was going to race a Deere, it would be an "S" sled.

nitrofa340 · Post by **nitrofa340** » Wed May 03, 2006 2:43 pm

Chuck Moser brought a 295S out onto the ice last winter and did very well. I believe a well set-up 340S could be successfully raced up into 440F/C classes.

8ho · Post by **8ho** » Sat May 13, 2006 6:59 pm

340/S turns left pretty good to (bevra)