I am putting the finishing touches on my 1980 LF restoration, and I have a few last minute Q's. When putting the crankshaft in to you put adhesive around the seals, or just lubricate them? What C-case sealer should I use? How do I test my coils? Is their an easy way to replace the PTO oil seal? What precautions should I use when building this motor? How do I advance the timing for my invader heads? Where do I get needle jets? How do I align clutches w/out the JD aligning tool? Will the 50:1 mix for break in wreck my $15 visufilter (fuel filter). How do I keep the fuel line away from the jackshaft? (I used an aftermarket fuel pump). What is the best way to synch carbs without expensive gauges or the finger method? Does anyone know what gaskets come in the cometic set for the invaders? These are lot of Q's, but they are my last few qualms before I go ahead and build a motor with a brand new block, and pistons. I should have pictures soon.
~Jack Durand
1980 Liquifire
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guitardude081
- Posts: 990
- Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 12:00 am
- Real Name: Jack Durand
- Location: Brainerd, MN
1980 Liquifire
Owner, Durand Motorsports
1980 Trailfire 340 (Grandpa bought new)
1983 Trailfire LX
1982 Spitfire (Grandpa bought new)
(3)1974 295/S
1975 340/S
2020 Polaris Indy 600 XC 129 40th Anniversary Edition
1980 Trailfire 340 (Grandpa bought new)
1983 Trailfire LX
1982 Spitfire (Grandpa bought new)
(3)1974 295/S
1975 340/S
2020 Polaris Indy 600 XC 129 40th Anniversary Edition
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Rodimus Prime
- Posts: 738
- Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2005 12:00 am
1980 Liquifire
pto seal can be replace by removing the gear use bearing puller in press to remove gear..
outside of seals should be lightly sanded or scuffed with scuffing pads to remove packing residue(powdered like residue of wax/teflon/silicone. and installed with grease on inside edge that goes on crank and threebond/yamabond/hondabond/kawabond/..etc... product its gray and is farily hard to remove from handsfor outside or seals to case. also use on all other joints but head gaskets.. head gaskets should be scuffed with scratch pad and painted with alumin base paint(cheap ass chrome paint is one) and install when paint is still very wet. torque head gaskets down using specs from manual and recheck after you have completed.. it is a good idea to wire wheel and tap threads as over time some threads strecth and will cause an inacurate torquw reading.. i also lube mine with a bit of oil before i torque them down . the head nuts which are capped use red locktight ONLY on underside edge or nut where it contacts the washers( yes plural ) there should be a somewhat thick flat washer AND a lock washer.. many a stud have been broken and washers removed.
some peole will no doubt say there are not lock washers or room for them and that you should use locktight on all bolts.... locktight on threads before torqueing will casue a 5 pound difference. also since head nuts are retorqued AFTER engine has been run first time there is a chance of striping studs, stud holes in aluminum, breaking studs or just plainly not getting torque correct on all nuts casuing a warped head, leaking head gasket, or leaking out of bolt holes. and finnally ALL engine bolts came with BOTH washers AND lock washers PERIOD. only exception on injected motors is the injections had two flat aluminum flat washers.
nos head gaskets or oem were thing black alloy head gaskets with rubber like coating.. current gaskets such as winderosa or comtic are compound gaskets with alloy ring for cylinder. that shiny coating doesnt always stick to well
coils can be checked for shorts or open. main coil if it has external cdi is easy to check internal cdi cannot be checked easily.
the water pump to engine oring is a bitch use 1104 sealant to hold in place becareful to make sure oring does not pop out during install
if you find that componts seem hard to fit over studs on engine remove and use a drill of correct size (bottom of hole is good measurement) and ream holes...
hope i covered everything.
outside of seals should be lightly sanded or scuffed with scuffing pads to remove packing residue(powdered like residue of wax/teflon/silicone. and installed with grease on inside edge that goes on crank and threebond/yamabond/hondabond/kawabond/..etc... product its gray and is farily hard to remove from handsfor outside or seals to case. also use on all other joints but head gaskets.. head gaskets should be scuffed with scratch pad and painted with alumin base paint(cheap ass chrome paint is one) and install when paint is still very wet. torque head gaskets down using specs from manual and recheck after you have completed.. it is a good idea to wire wheel and tap threads as over time some threads strecth and will cause an inacurate torquw reading.. i also lube mine with a bit of oil before i torque them down . the head nuts which are capped use red locktight ONLY on underside edge or nut where it contacts the washers( yes plural ) there should be a somewhat thick flat washer AND a lock washer.. many a stud have been broken and washers removed.
some peole will no doubt say there are not lock washers or room for them and that you should use locktight on all bolts.... locktight on threads before torqueing will casue a 5 pound difference. also since head nuts are retorqued AFTER engine has been run first time there is a chance of striping studs, stud holes in aluminum, breaking studs or just plainly not getting torque correct on all nuts casuing a warped head, leaking head gasket, or leaking out of bolt holes. and finnally ALL engine bolts came with BOTH washers AND lock washers PERIOD. only exception on injected motors is the injections had two flat aluminum flat washers.
nos head gaskets or oem were thing black alloy head gaskets with rubber like coating.. current gaskets such as winderosa or comtic are compound gaskets with alloy ring for cylinder. that shiny coating doesnt always stick to well
coils can be checked for shorts or open. main coil if it has external cdi is easy to check internal cdi cannot be checked easily.
the water pump to engine oring is a bitch use 1104 sealant to hold in place becareful to make sure oring does not pop out during install
if you find that componts seem hard to fit over studs on engine remove and use a drill of correct size (bottom of hole is good measurement) and ream holes...
hope i covered everything.