Need some opinions on a 1981 Liquifire 440

[Blown 331]

I'm thinking of purchasing a 1981 JD 440 Snowmobile and want to get some opinons on them. It runs and looks good so Im not concerned with that. I'm just looking for any and all info about them. Hows the power, parts availabilty, reliability etc. How long before they need a rebuild, on average. My cousin has a 1997 Arctic Cat 550, I guess it's safe to say the JD will have no where near the power? How fast are they. Just anything you can tell me about this model would be great. I really don't know anything about them. The price is $300. A friend of mine has one just like it but I have never even seen it run, even though he did have it out last weekend. My brother has a 340 air cooled model, around a 1979 or 80 I think. Thanks!

Ryan

[Blown 331]

I'm going to look at it tonight after work. Am I going to have to fend for myself or what?

[AirborneX4Special]

The Liquifire will have no trouble keeping up with that 97 Cat in most conditions. The Cat will have more power, but it also has more weight to haul around and a much higher center of gravity.

Look at:
Serial number & build date, stamped right rear of tunnel
Track, idler wheels, suspension
Skis & steering
Seat
Bellypan
Clutches & chaincase
Oil pump & lines
Air intake silencer (plastic airbox)
Overall condition

Ask how much the sled has been operated in the past few seasons; crankcase seals are huge on a Kawasaki engine. If it's been sitting most of the time you will need to change the seals and get the carbs cleaned. If it runs correctly and is not all beat up, it will be difficult to go terribly wrong for $300 because those two things are not very hard to fix.

[Blown 331]

Thanks for the reply. After reading this I'm pretty pumped about getting it! This might not be the best analogy but I thought comparing a 1981 JD to a 1997 Cat would be like comparing a 1981 Corvette to a 1997 Corvette. Sounds like it will be close enough to where we can go riding and I don't get dusted.

And thanks for the heads up on things to check. I've never owned a snowmobile so I'm not real sure what to look at.

It is owned by a friend of a friend so I know a little about it. My friend has ridden it several times, he said it starts and runs great but hasn't really been used since early 2010 but operated perfectly at that time.

Given the age and the fact we dont get a ton of snow here I'm going to say the crank case seals could be suspect but if they aren't that big of a deal I wont worry too much about that during purchase.

We have about 4-5 inches of snow right now but I think it's supposed to get up to 50 degrees tomorrow so I'll probably have to wait to next snow before I can really test it out.

Thanks again!

[Danzig]

where from in Illinois ?

[nick80lf]

I'll add some.

As far as purchasing make sure it's complete. There is nothing more expensive than buying a sled one piece at a time.

It's not a deal breaker but look over the rubber carb flanges really well if you buy it. The rubber is molded over a steel plate, over time the steel can rust, ect and the ruber starts to seperate. It can get to the point that air can leak in. Usually around the mounting bolts and will cause the engine to run lean (just like a bad crank seal) both will cause serious engine damage.

FYI, a new pair of Mikuni flanges (they are shorter) will cost about $60.
Crankseals (all 3) about $12
Tube of Yamabond about $10

[Blown 331]

I am from around Waterloo IL which is about 20 miles from St. Louis MO.

Whats up with the tube of yamabond? How hard are these crank seals to change? I don't have to split the bottom end do I?

[nick80lf]

Whats up with the tube of yamabond? How hard are these crank seals to change? I don't have to split the bottom end do I?

Yeah you do. You also have to pull the oil pump drive gear off the crank to replace the PTO side seal.

[AirborneX4Special]

You might inquire if the engine has been apart recently and if so, what was done and why.

Nick is correct. Sometimes the airbox gets pitched into a corner, never to be seen again. The carb flange rubber starts to deteriorate from lack of use more than anything. The shorter ones will make life easier when making carb changes.


Check if the speed limiter functions by holding the throttle lever base away from the block with one hand, while advancing the throttle with the other. The engine should miss or cut out below 4000 rpm.

Serial number range is 155,001 to 190,000 for '81 models.

Post pictures if you buy this machine.

[Blown 331]

Whats up with the tube of yamabond? How hard are these crank seals to change? I don't have to split the bottom end do I?

Yeah you do. You also have to pull the oil pump drive gear off the crank to replace the PTO side seal.

Well that puts a damper on things. At least there is no transmission to deal with like on a motorcycle.

[Blown 331]

You might inquire if the engine has been apart recently and if so, what was done and why.

Nick is correct. Sometimes the airbox gets pitched into a corner, never to be seen again. The carb flange rubber starts to deteriorate from lack of use more than anything. The shorter ones will make life easier when making carb changes.


Check if the speed limiter functions by holding the throttle lever base away from the block with one hand, while advancing the throttle with the other. The engine should miss or cut out below 4000 rpm.

Serial number range is 155,001 to 190,000 for '81 models.

Post pictures if you buy this machine.

Thanksfor the info and I'll be sure to post pics. I'm not sure I'm understating the speed limiter. Does it limit ground speed or engine speed and they run more than 4000rpm dont they? I'm kind of lost there.

Also what is the typical top speed for a stock one?

I sure learned a lot about these things in less than 24hrs!

Thanks again everyone!

[burt87]

I like your signature.

[nick80lf]

Thanksfor the info and I'll be sure to post pics. I'm not sure I'm understating the speed limiter. Does it limit ground speed or engine speed and they run more than 4000rpm dont they? I'm kind of lost there.

Also what is the typical top speed for a stock one?

I sure learned a lot about these things in less than 24hrs!

Thanks again everyone!

The rev limiter has 2 functions. The first function is to limit the RPM to 4000 (less than clutch engagement) if the throttle lever is not pressed. There is a switch in the throttle block, when you press the throttle lever the pivot pin will slide about 1/8" towards the kill switch this presses on the rev limiter switch in the throttle block. That will then de-activate the rev limiter box and alow the RPM to go above 4000.

The second function is to limit the top end RPM to 9000 if the belt would happen to blow.

Like airborne said grab the throttle pivot pin with one hand and push on the throttle with the other. The engine should studder at about 4000 rpm. If it doesn't work it can be unplugged without causing a problem, just won't have the protection. My money is on it not being operational.

I'd say the top speed depends alot on snow / temp conditions and which clutch / chain case gearing is on it. If my memory is correct there were some 81 that have an "A" in the serial number (someone correct me if I'm wrong). These were leftover 81 that were upgraded with the TR800 clutch and sold in 82.

[Invader440]

I am from around Waterloo IL which is about 20 miles from St. Louis MO.

How hard are these crank seals to change? I don't have to split the bottom end do I?

Here's a good thread on changing crank seals on these engines from the Kawasakitrax web site:
http://kawasakitrax.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=96

[Blown 331]

I like your signature.

Thanks! I thought someone would get a kick out of that! And now I have a John Deere that covers me for the summer and winter! I got it!
This thing is in great condition. Track looks perfect. Carb boots are perfect, has the air box. Lights work. It is super clean everywhere including the engine. The guy had it for 15 years. He bought it as part of a package with the other Liquifire that my buddy has. He said he has never had to repair any part of it.
It only has 590 miles on it!
A part of the throttle cable broke where it goes from the single cable from the hand throttle to the junction that splits 3 ways for each carb and the oil injector. Hopefully that makes sense. Whats the repair here? Buy a whole cable? If so where do I get one? Even with not being able to operate the throttle it still starts with half a pull and idles perfectly. Because of this I got it for $280.
One thing that is kind of weird is that this guy and the guy who owned the other one did, was run the oil injector plus 32 to 1 premix! Wow. They said they dont trust the injectors but they do use oil from the tank. Suggestion here? Can I elimiate the oil injection? Or should I just stop pre-mixing? The first owner of the other one said it lubricates something else as well?
It also turned out to be a 1980. Made in 10/79.
Sorry about the poor pictures, it was poor lighting and a cell phone. And for some reason the whole pics are not displaying.