Barn find... back to front

[JDT]

I figured I would take a few minutes and type up my thoughts after reading hundreds of post on this forum.

As mentioned earlier most guys jump right on the engine from the get go.
So do I.
The first thing I do is pull the engine out of the chassis and set it aside.
It is the last thing I look at when I start a sled project.
WHY?? Cause I feel it is the easiest thing to fix.
I don't know, maybe there is something wrong with me.

So starting at the back...

Rear bumper. This is important as it adds rigidity to the the tunnel. It makes lifting the sled easy. It maybe part of the tow hitch. If it is missing or broken replace it.

Taillight. It is important to have a working taillight and if so equiped, a brake light. For a buck you can buy a new 1157 bulb and be safe and be seen. Replacment lens are available and cheap.

Seat. While some say this is only a cosmetic thing, keep in mind with limited suspension travel your back will appreciate foam that is in good condition. A new seat will set you back a few hundred.

Rear suspension. It doesn't matter what is under the tunnel... boggies, slides or a hybrid combination of both, pull it out. Usually 6 bolts, sometimes only four. Set it on the bench or a couple of saw horses and let the fun begin. All wheels (idlers and boggies) have bearings. If they are stuck, noisey, broken you have work to do. Slides may need replacement. Every weld on the system needs to be inspected for cracks. Springs need to be checked. Some sleds have up to 12 rear suspension springs. Bushings may be worn out. Shocks may be broken, stuck or weak. Limiter staps may be missing, worn or broke. Tension adjusting bolts may be stripped. Spring guides broke. Rail bumpers missing. There is a lot to look at on the supension but it is very important that every part be checked. A broken spring tang can ruin a track in seconds. Or worse, can lock up the track and cause a serious accident.

Track. If you have a cleated track look at every cleat and rivet. A broken cleat can be realy dangerous. Remove and replace any rivets or cleats that are loose, cracked, ect. I have actually seen a cleat stuck up through the seat clean though the tunnel. Not a problem if you are done fathering children. A rubber track needs to have all the clips in place and in good condition. Clips cost a buck a piece. Replacing all of them is not out of the question and cheaper than replacing the track. This does require a special tool. If the track is studded, picked, clawed or whatever you have more to inspect. A stud flying out the rear of your sled at 60 MPH will not make the guy behind you very happy.

Skis. Look for cracks and enlarged mounting holes for the spring barckets. Ski loops and shock mounts in peticular are often fatigued and cracked. Make sure that the leaf springs are all intact and have even pressure side to side. Wear rods, carbides or hardbars need to be in usable condition or replaced. Spring cushion slides may be worn out or completly missing. Ski bumpers missing. Mounting bolts worn out or the wrong size. Many sleds have cast saddles which can be cracked. The saddle bolts may well be worn out. New bolts will help with sloppy steering and cost less than a buck.
Ski skocks may be bent, frozen, leaking or just plain junk.

Bellypan. That sure is an ugly dent under there. But with the engine out, a 30 second fix. Look for missing or loose rivets. Bumper mounts and hardware need to be inspected. Hood hinges, guides, holddowns. Bumper got a nasty dent? Take it off and press it back into shape.

Steering. Nothing worse than sloppy steering. It is unsafe and makes your arms sore. Set a upsidedown 5 gal bucket on the floor between the skis. Grab the ski loops and lift the skis up and than with your foot push the bucket under the front bumper. The next step will be an eye opener! Grab both ski loops and move then in opposite directions. If you have more than an inch of play or slop you have a job in front of you. Any and all of the following can be worn out. Tie rod ends, linkages, spindle bushings, saddle bushings, spring cushions, steer post bushings, pivot bushings, saddle bolts. Any part or piece that has wear will contribute to the play. Now grab each ski one at a time from the side. Does it wiggle sideways? More work found. Grab the handle bars. How much can you move them before one ski or the other moves? I have yet to see any sled with more than 1000 miles on it that did not need some quality time spent on steering. But your efforts will be rewarded with superior handling and control.

Bulkhead. Look for cracks on all welds. Worn out motor mounts? Bad mounts casue excessive vibration and make proper clutch/belt alignment impossible. Any misalinged pieces or previous repairs? Missing bolts? Allows look for bits and piece in the bottom of the pan as you can learn a lot for what you find there. If you have electric start check the battery box real good.

Gas tank. All tanks have a vent, somewhere. It can be in the filler cap or a seperate small barb sometimes with a small short line that goes nowhere attached. The tank mounts must be intact to hold the tank from shifting. A leak can develope form the tank rubbing on the chassis. Inside the tank there is a pickup tube. There should be a filter with a checkvalve on the end of this tube. This makes the difference betwwen starting on the first pull or starting an the 15st pull. The tank outlet grommet needs to seal on the tank. A new grommet cost $3.00. Most all gas caps have a rubber gasket under them. If it is missing you will have gas leaking out the cap while ridding. This makes your crotch smelly.

Time for a break.
Matt feel free to move this where ever you see fit.