still burning bulbs with new VR

tnc110 · Post by **tnc110** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:04 pm

79 spitfire. voltage reading was peaking around 30 v at high rpm so i bought a 28v headlight. this bulb didnt last long. so i bought a new VR and a 12v bulb. still blowing bulbs. any ideas? what bulb should i be running? anyone have any part #s other than the JD #s?

Post by **Matt** » Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:20 pm

A good ground to the chassis for the regulator is very important. Make sure it's clean. It is a 12 volt system.

tnc110 · Post by **tnc110** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 10:51 pm

ok so when the last bulb burnt out it did some crazy things...the light changed to a few different colors before it went out. I've checked all the wiring and all is well. Now if i take the volt meter to the light plug or the stator wires i get less than 1v. but the sled still runs fine. is it possible that my stator is shot? are the ignition circuits and accessory circuits separate...meaning that even if the acces side is dead it can still run on the ignition side?

johnnycyclone · Post by **johnnycyclone** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:40 pm

tnc110,
I have the same problem right now with my 79 Spitty. Went for a ride and blew all the bulbs, the hand warmers got so hot, I couldn't touch the bars. Definitely getting more than 12 volts. I probably won't be able to look into it until the weekend, but I will let you know if I find the problem.

Terre

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:44 pm

A light bulb will do the color change if air gets into the lamp.

Bulbs are a vacuum and the filiments burn up at differnet temps when exposed to Oxygen.

Try to figure out what is making the glass break loose from the metal base.

Ignition and lighting are two seperate curciuts.

Do you have the meter on Volts DC?

Try it on AC....

tnc110 · Post by **tnc110** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:57 am

I did have it on DC will, try again... Which lead do I need to put where and what readings should I see?

johnnycyclone · Post by **johnnycyclone** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 9:01 pm

I had a chance to take a closer look at mine this evening, and was able to fix the problem. The problem is I am not exactly sure what fixed it, although I think this may help. What I did was take my multimeter and attach it to the headlight plug for readings. I used the center plug and one of the outside plugs. I start up the sled and get about 17 volts at idle, and about 30V at 5000rpm, not good. I assume it's the regulator that is the cause, so my plan is to take one off of another sled that I know for sure is working. I make the change, but I am still getting the same readings, way to high. So, knowing the regulator is good, I'm assuming there is probably a connection problem somewhere, but where? So, my next step is to check the wires, and connectors at the terminal strip, mainly focusing on the ones from the regulator. I find some connectors damaged, and some wires loose on the connectors. So I cleaned all the connectors, replace the damage ones, and fix the ones that are loose. I re-start the sled, and am now getting 10V at idle, and around 11V at 5000rpm, problem solved. Again not sure on the real culprit, but it had to be a bad connection somewhere on the terminal strip. I would go through all of your connectors, cleaning, and replacing any the have issues. I hope this helps, and you can find the problem.

Terre

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:29 pm

tnc110... you have to have the meter set to read AC volts.

If you read DC it will always read a very low number because it is DC that runs the lights.

400brian · Post by **400brian** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 3:39 am

If you read DC it will always read a very low number because it is DC that runs the lights.
Todd Schrupp

Todd, on a non electric start system, everything is running on AC voltage. I know you know this, but your statement ( as I read it ) sounds wrong to me.

tnc110 · Post by **tnc110** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:51 am

So what bulb do I need to be using? I have been getting the same bulb that was in the sled when I got it, but it may not be right.

johnnycyclone · Post by **johnnycyclone** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:07 am

I wouldn't worry to much about the bulb until you get the voltage regulated. Todd is right you need to have the meter set to AC. I will be purchasing a new head lamp for mine tonight, so I can get you some info. I just get mine from my local auto parts store, they should be able to look it up in the parts book.

Terre

johnnycyclone · Post by **johnnycyclone** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:28 pm

Ordered a headlight today from my local Auto Value parts dealer. Wagner lamp, part # 4420.

JDT · Post by **JDT** » Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:50 pm

Yes Brian that was a typo on my part.

AC is correct.

why can I not edit that post??

Is there a time limit on edit rights??

still burning bulbs with new VR

still burning bulbs with new VR

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