Building a shop

For hobbies other then snowmobiles.
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S_Kyle
Posts: 1351
Joined: Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:00 am
Real Name: Scott Kyle
Location: Roland Manitoba

Building a shop

Post by S_Kyle »

I am planning on putting up a shop in the spring and looking for ideas. I have out grown the two car garage I am currently working out of. What I am thinking is 30x40, 14' celling. In-floor heat with a washroom in the back. One large overhead and two walk ins. I got the recommendation to use T12's for light as they are supposed to be alot better than the rest of the fluorescents. Stud frame with tin one the outside and plywood on the inside.

Looking for any other thoughts or suggestions you guys have.

Scott
Scott Kyle,
Liquifire: 77 (440) (2), 600: 73,74,75
Massey Whirlwind: 76 440 (2)
Mercury Hurricane 644: 72,73
OMC Snowcruiser: 66,68,70
Rupp: 70 34 Sprint
Allouettte Super Brute: 74 (5)
OTC Deere sled dyno
JDT
Posts: 5561
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:00 am
Real Name: Todd
Location: Milbank South Dakota

Re: Building a shop

Post by JDT »

4 ft T12 light draws 2.5 amps.
4 ft T8 lamps draw .65 amps.
Electronic ballasts offer instant on and cold start.
Fixtures cost $15 each and bulbs were a buck a piece.

Plus T 12's are on the way out.

I used OSB on the inside as it is less then $6 a sheet and stonger than drywall. I installed it smooth side out of course.
Todd Schrupp

Milbank SD
JDT
Posts: 5561
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:00 am
Real Name: Todd
Location: Milbank South Dakota

Re: Building a shop

Post by JDT »

Nothing beats in floor heat in my book.
Todd Schrupp

Milbank SD
S_Kyle
Posts: 1351
Joined: Sun Dec 09, 2007 1:00 am
Real Name: Scott Kyle
Location: Roland Manitoba

Re: Building a shop

Post by S_Kyle »

JDT wrote:Nothing beats in floor heat in my book.
I have always said, if/ when I build there has to be infloor heat. In my opinion there is no other way to heat a shop. admittedly don't know much about lighting. I belive I have the smaller t5's above my bench now but they are very expensive, they seem to have alot of light but pricey.

Keep the opinions coming. I am lucky in that the bank has already given me the money and working up in the bush is helping with saving a bit up to off set the costs.
Scott Kyle,
Liquifire: 77 (440) (2), 600: 73,74,75
Massey Whirlwind: 76 440 (2)
Mercury Hurricane 644: 72,73
OMC Snowcruiser: 66,68,70
Rupp: 70 34 Sprint
Allouettte Super Brute: 74 (5)
OTC Deere sled dyno
TASKY
Posts: 732
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 1:00 am
Location: Duluth MN

Re: Building a shop

Post by TASKY »

A full size overhead door on the other end of the building for a straight pull through, best thing I ever did. A floor drain is handy. As long as your going 14' ceilings go 16' for the money the extra height is worth it. You never know what your going to bring home might as well be prepared. With the 16' height a mezzanine for storage is in order. A brand new car hoist strategically placed so it could be used as a elevator to put the bigger things on your mezzanine. Make sure to provide a thickend slab where your carhoist bolts to the floor. Do it now even if the hoist is much later. Control joints in the concrete. Make sure from the door to the wall there is 4'. You can fit any snowmobile against the wall and not block the door. With the 16' ceilings and some pallet racking you can stack them against the wall 4 high no problem. Check out garagejournal.com the ideas are endless. Now I am going back to dreaming about a lean to. TASKY
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eppjd
Posts: 252
Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 1:00 am
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada

Re: Building a shop

Post by eppjd »

ahem-

I keep telling you to make provisions to install a full width/length overhead crane at some point. I agree a floor drain is an excellent idea. Also be sure to lay a proper base under your foundation, weeping tile and all, but I'm sure I don't have to tell you this, based on your profession.

As well, I have offered this suggestion in the past to you with no luck, but if you are putting tin on the outside instead of vinyl anyhow then why not go post and beam construction with straw bale infill? May just be the eccentric in me, but you will have much higher R rated walls, not to mention a greener and perhaps more economical way of insulating. Would be a lot of research and maybe some trouble for getting permits, but people have done it and I think more should use ideas such as this.

That's all for now, just tryin to get the gears to "click" in...



oh and yes, I am replying to this as I sit on vacation here in Thailand. Long trip but I would recommend a visit to anybody.
Adam Epp
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

74 400 (2 - sold)
75 800 (motor in pieces, next on the resto list)
75 X4 Special (bare tunnel, stripped)
76 340 Cyclone (resto in progress)
76 340 Cyclone (bare tunnel, stripped)
Kurts
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Dec 08, 2010 11:40 pm
Location: Illinois

Re: Building a shop

Post by Kurts »

I can't wait to finish school and hopefully find a job somewhere cool. First on my list after that is a 30x50 or bigger. Then maybe after a few years I might think about a house.
Kurt.
295/s
'72 400, Modern suspension, mod 440/5, hoping to be 65hp
'91 Eagle Talon 10.9@140, street tire E85 3400lbs.
JDT
Posts: 5561
Joined: Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:00 am
Real Name: Todd
Location: Milbank South Dakota

Re: Building a shop

Post by JDT »

You can always live in the shop.
If you are single....
Todd Schrupp

Milbank SD
trailfire runner
Posts: 198
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 8:10 pm
Location: 43302

Re: Building a shop

Post by trailfire runner »

t5s with the refective tin on top are the best we have 9 in our shop that is 40X60 and its almost too bright
BC
Clay Gerfen
My Sleds
1 1980 Trailfire 340 = Less than five hundred orginal miles
1 1980 Trailfire 440 = My Test Dummy
1 1980 Liquifire = Future race sled
1 1978 Spitfire
1 1979 Spitfire
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