Replacing seals and gaskets

jrambler · Post by **jrambler** » Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:27 pm

OK, I got the clutch off my Liguifire. Now the engine is out and sitting on the work bench. I have bought a complete gasket/seal kit.

I want to replace the crank seals, base seals (between crankcase and cylinder), head gaskets and various cooling line gaskets.

On the end of the engine where the clutch goes there is a cover held on by several bolts. I took it off to reveal a large bearing inside the end cover and gears which appear to drive the oiler and water pump. This end plate has an o-ring type seal embedded in it. That seal did not come in the kit. It seems OK. Do I just use some blue Permatex and put it back together after replacing the seal in the end plate?

What else should I be looking for and are there any gotcha's?

If I pull the cylinder off, will I need a ring compressor to get it back on?

What is torque spec for the nuts on top of heads when re-assembling?

Thanks again for tolerating and responding to my questions.

Post by **guitardude081** » Thu Oct 27, 2005 12:08 am

Your kit will not have this or the cooling system gaskets. I am currently working with a guy at Cometic to get them reproduced. I should know any day when they will be done.

Greenxcracer76 · Post by **Greenxcracer76** » Thu Oct 27, 2005 12:37 am

The last kit I bought from DK had the water pipe gaskets but no thermostat gasket. I have about a hundred of these NOS from Deere, let me know if you need one and I'll drop it in the mail. I have always used a little of the white crankcase seal from Threebond available through DK on my gearcases and I have not had any leakers. You shouldn't need a ring compressor to get the pistons back in, maybe just a little oil. In order to replace the pto side crank seal you will have to remove the gear on the crank which is pressed on. I have had good luck with a knife edge bearing puller and a hydraulic press. Otherwise the motor is pretty straight forward. Just make sure you line your timing mark back up before you bolt your flywheel back on and you should be set. Good luck with it. Mike.

sledzeppelin · Post by **sledzeppelin** » Thu Oct 27, 2005 2:12 pm

http://www.ryanquick.com/jd/info/

That should help you with reassembly.

-Ryan

grasscutter97 · Post by **grasscutter97** » Thu Oct 27, 2005 10:15 pm

Bob @ image has all the gaskets too, as that's where I got all the water pump/cooling gaskets for my liquifire. As for the crank...take it to a good shop. They will check it for straigtness, check the journals, correct index, etc. Plan on paying $100 (good deal) to $200 (a bit high).

JoeRainville · Post by **JoeRainville** » Fri Oct 28, 2005 8:15 am

Hey Guys,

If rebuilding an 80's Liquifire or any Deere motor for the first time, I can't stress the usefullness of the factory service manual enough. They are still available new from Deere, or you can find good originals on Evil-Bay or at sled shows. The manual shows how to pull apart the jackshaft and gear box on the side of the motor, how to shim it all, test the injection pump, set the timing, and how to pull the inner PTO seal, jackshaft drive gear, and outer bearing in one shot.

Just thought I would point this out!

I hope this helps,

-Joe Rainville
"Tech-Ed"