I think I'm in trouble now!!!

jrambler · Post by **jrambler** » Mon Oct 24, 2005 8:27 pm

Trying to get the clutch off and its been a real problem. First the threads inside the clutch were gone. Got a 13/16 drill bit, drilled out old threads and retapped for 7/8 -14. Used a grade8 bolt and a piece of 1/2" all thread to improvise a puller. Tried to pull clutch and the all-thread just bent inside the clutch and now I can't get it out and the clutch still has not popped free from crank shaft.

Not sure what to do now?? Can I just cut/burn/explode the old clutch until I get it off and then buy another clutch? I assume so, but what are risks? Also how much for a used clutch? or a new one?

I was afraid this would happen.... I'm frustrated, but more determined than ever to ride this thing now!!!!

PS. I have a 340 trailfire. Will that clutch fit the Liquifire?

Rodimus Prime · Post by **Rodimus Prime** » Mon Oct 24, 2005 10:59 pm

since the only thing wrong with clutch is the spindle that can be replaced. as for the clutch of the 340 trailfire unless you have a 108 style 102c.( its bigger diameter) then yes you can use it with the cams and wieghts from original also the spring.

to get the FUBAR one off at this point you will have to take apart clutch as much as you can in machine. this way you will save as much as possible of clutch.

you can use a propane torch and heat the piss out of spindle and you may get lucky and it will pop off with a good wack of hammer. most likey is the mess job of chiseling it off.

Note at this point im pretty sure the pto gearbox oil seal is gonna be toast so get a new one. NOt the pto engine seal. although a good rebuild or overhaul wouldn't be a bad idea for preventative maintence.

using a hacksay cut grooves into the clutch spindle as close to spider side as possible then using a SHARP good chisel hammer at grooves but turn engine slowly by hand so that you dont hammer on one side all the time.if you can get the spider assembly broken off in one piece put that aside. now you cut a groove parralel to crank that is NOT all the way down to crank. cut 4 grooves. using chisel you can sorta spread the clutch spindle apart enough that it should almost fall of crank. . note some not all clutch had a brass or steel insert for 30 mm taper using two hammers if this is still there put one hammer on one side and hammer the other side rotate and repeat till its off.

replace seal it can be removed and replaced.

using emory cloth or fine sand paper polish the crank where clutch sits so that its rust free. using original parts as refernce or as parts themselves if salvageable. make a "rebuilt" clutch to match the original clutch weight and setup for machine.

JDFanPa · Post by **JDFanPa** » Mon Oct 24, 2005 11:04 pm

There are alot of negative opinions on homemade clutch pullers here and Im not going to get into it to each there own. My only comment would be you went wrong with the all thread. It does seem at this point you will need to bust the clutch up to get it off avoid the fire cant really cut aluminum anyway and be careful not to damage the crankshaft. The trailfire clutch would technicaly fit but wont perform right or hold up. Best start looking for a used clutch even if its off a differnt sled but the same model you can always swap your weights springs etc over.

Horicon Joe · Post by **Horicon Joe** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 9:39 am

What about the water inside and letting it freeze trick to pop off the clutch?

Put the sled back to its original TR800 clutch ..... just my opinion ...

Joe

JDGuy · Post by **JDGuy** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 9:51 am

Whatever clutch you put back on after getting this one off, put a very small dab of "Never-Seeze" or other high moly lube on the crank taper. It will prevent the problem you are currently having when you have to remove it next time. JUST A VERY LIGHT FILM OF LUBE ON THE TAPER.

jrambler · Post by **jrambler** » Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:16 pm

Good news, I was able to get the all-thread out of the clutch. It was not bent, but had been pushed inside the crank. Thankfully it did not ruin the crank threads. I made another piece of all thread that was slightly smaller and bottomed out inside the crank. Then I was able to push the clutch off!!!! No damage to the clutch or crank.

That was a close one. Thanks for the advice.

harleysportster · Post by **harleysportster** » Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:24 pm

jrambler,
You should buy the correct puller which is made from hardened tool steel. THe all-thread is soft and could bend in the future.

jrambler · Post by **jrambler** » Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:34 pm

I agree. The problem is that my clutch threads were completely gone. I had to drill and tap the clutch to a 7/8-14 thread. I don't know if anyone would make a puller with that thread. I plan to buy a hardened bolt and cut it to same dimesions as the all-thread. I'll use that in the future.

I also plan to use the anti-sieze (sparingly) as suggested and hopefully this whole problem can be avoided.

I learned a lesson. Thankfully it turned out OK!!!