Liquifire tuning

Technical topics related to machines powered by Kasasaki motors
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guitardude081
Posts: 990
Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 12:00 am
Real Name: Jack Durand
Location: Brainerd, MN

Liquifire tuning

Post by guitardude081 »

I soaked my powerjet carbs for 3 days, and cleaned the hell out of them. (They were still filthy) I Installed new correct needles and seats. The sled wouldn't start on it's own, but w/ gas in the cylinders it fired right up. There are no leaks anywhere. I took the carbs off and tilted them, and left them over night, there is no fuel getting past the needle and seat anymore. When it runs, it idles at about 2500 RPM for about 1 minute and then it dies. When I fire it up again (w/fuel in the cylinders), it won't idle, but I can keep it going as long as I want. It has throttle response over 4000RPM, but below you have to milk it to 4000. Keep in mind that the airbox is off. The air screws are 1 1/2 turns out. I just need to know how to tune the carbs so that it will fire up on it's own because the the plugs are wet after it has been running. Both cylinders are firing, but I'm wondering if there's still residual fuel in my crankcase, and if it's still running rich. It died once and I couldn't keep it going and it was similar to when a sled runs out of fuel. I put gas in the cylinders, and it fired right up again. It handles load now, and it sounds heathy. When it idles, it sounds like a galloping horse now. (which is the indication that it is running correctly). I'm guessing that I am just down to fine tuning, and maybe a good crankcase draining...again, and I should finally after 14 months be ready to ride this thing for more than 2.3 miles. I was hoping I could do it at Sandy, but now it's ready to go for the most part.
~Jack
Owner, Durand Motorsports
1980 Trailfire 340 (Grandpa bought new)
1983 Trailfire LX
1982 Spitfire (Grandpa bought new)
(3)1974 295/S
1975 340/S
2020 Polaris Indy 600 XC 129 40th Anniversary Edition
sledchad

Liquifire tuning

Post by sledchad »

i would check compression just to see where its at. I would take your carbs back off and clean them correctly. I wouldnt soak them..try getting some eagle 1 tire cleaner. Spray it on and take a old tooth brush and scrubb a little then take it to the sink and rinse..you should notice a huge difference trust me this stuff works great! Dont use carb cleaner it doesnt work good with old dirty carbs. Set your float height make sure u have the right size jets in. Keep in mind the LF"s dont run good in 30+ deg weather. Sink your carbs at idle and at throttle opening. 1.5 turns out on mix screws. Also make sure u dont have an air leak somewhere. Take carb cleaner and spray the entire engine. I would start sraying the crank seals first. Give that a try and see what happens. Keep us updated.
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Danzig
Posts: 4431
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 12:00 am
Real Name: Paul File
Location: Van Orin, Illinois

Liquifire tuning

Post by Danzig »

If it was my sled, I would take her out and ride it for a couple miles and bring her her back to shed and see if it has cleaned itself out on its own. To start with. Guys on here have also told me that the air box is needed.
1973 JDX8
1978 Liquifire 340
1980 Liquifire 440 CC Racer
1980 Liquifire 440
1982 Liquifire 440


"Gotta Lick It Before You Stick It"
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guitardude081
Posts: 990
Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 12:00 am
Real Name: Jack Durand
Location: Brainerd, MN

Liquifire tuning

Post by guitardude081 »

Chad, the carbs are cleaner than brand new. The jets are all new from Central, and the seals are new from DK. I'm guessing that I just need to let it run for more than a couple of minutes. It goes like a normal strong running sled would, but I've been running it for 2 minutes, and shutting it off.....running it for 2 minutes and shutting it off. The Y-pipe is still able to be touched by a naked hand when I shut it off. I think I'll run it for around 10 minutes, and tune the carbs from there. As long as fuel in the cylinders starts it, I can run it on the trail, and make it home. My idle screws are only about 1/2 inch into the slide chamber, so maybe the idle is too low for a warm sled. Saturday is the test of everything. We'll have a long box chev at the ice house, a heavy duty polaris w/ low range, and a few sleds that can tow me home if I have a breakdown. I know that the sled is ready to rock because the floats are still free, I double checked the timing, there are still no leaks, and she still smells like she's running injected and mixed oil. I am 95% confident that I just need to adjust a few screws, and she'll be a brand new $2000 sled....take that all of you Brand new fusion or F7 buying bastards. I have a brand new JD for $2000 minus the price of parts I've sold...which runs me about -$121. I tallied up recipts, and I found out that I actually made money on this restoration. I guess it helped selling a basket case Trailfire that barely ran ($300)....plus all of the paint is rattle can...shhh don't tell anyone.
~Jack
Owner, Durand Motorsports
1980 Trailfire 340 (Grandpa bought new)
1983 Trailfire LX
1982 Spitfire (Grandpa bought new)
(3)1974 295/S
1975 340/S
2020 Polaris Indy 600 XC 129 40th Anniversary Edition
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Danzig
Posts: 4431
Joined: Wed Aug 17, 2005 12:00 am
Real Name: Paul File
Location: Van Orin, Illinois

Liquifire tuning

Post by Danzig »

good luck and post some pics.
1973 JDX8
1978 Liquifire 340
1980 Liquifire 440 CC Racer
1980 Liquifire 440
1982 Liquifire 440


"Gotta Lick It Before You Stick It"
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