80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
Well I had the maiden trip with the 80 LF this weekend with some friends. The LF did not perform well. The engine would only rev to about 7000 rpm then drop off to 6500, 30 to 40 mph was about it depending on snow conditions. We tried adding a little more preload on the secondary but that didn't do anything. The sled has 1200 original miles on it. I will take the clutches apart and look for obvious problems. We made some magic marker lines on the clutch faces, and it appears that the belt only travels about half way up the primary and half way down the secondary. Still managed to put about 90 miles on the sled this weekend. So I have a few questions.
What is the engagement RPM? Currently about 5000 RPM
What RPM should the sled operate at?
What color is the factory secondary spring supposed to be? Current one is blue.
What hole is the spring supposed to be in?
What weights are supposed to be in the primary?
What spring is supposed to be in the primary?
Also is there a way to remove the secondary clutch from the sled?
What is the center to center distance for the clutches?
Thanks for any the help guys.
What is the engagement RPM? Currently about 5000 RPM
What RPM should the sled operate at?
What color is the factory secondary spring supposed to be? Current one is blue.
What hole is the spring supposed to be in?
What weights are supposed to be in the primary?
What spring is supposed to be in the primary?
Also is there a way to remove the secondary clutch from the sled?
What is the center to center distance for the clutches?
Thanks for any the help guys.
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Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
Engagement 4500
8000 - 8200 governed speed
Blue spring is factory
Position 2
B weights
Purple spring
Secondary held on by a long bolt, heavy alignment washer, spacers, and square key. Clutch should slide off easily unless it's been on the shaft a long time. Soaking with penetrating oil should help.
There should be no center to center adjustment, only lateral alignment.
Sounds like you may have fuel issues if the sled only revs to 7000. Pull the airbox and see if the slides are adjusted correctly. Does it start and idle properly?
8000 - 8200 governed speed
Blue spring is factory
Position 2
B weights
Purple spring
Secondary held on by a long bolt, heavy alignment washer, spacers, and square key. Clutch should slide off easily unless it's been on the shaft a long time. Soaking with penetrating oil should help.
There should be no center to center adjustment, only lateral alignment.
Sounds like you may have fuel issues if the sled only revs to 7000. Pull the airbox and see if the slides are adjusted correctly. Does it start and idle properly?
Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
Thanks for reply. The sled seems to start and idle properly.AirborneX4Special wrote:Engagement 4500
8000 - 8200 governed speed
Blue spring is factory
Position 2
B weights
Purple spring
Secondary held on by a long bolt, heavy alignment washer, spacers, and square key. Clutch should slide off easily unless it's been on the shaft a long time. Soaking with penetrating oil should help.
There should be no center to center adjustment, only lateral alignment.
Sounds like you may have fuel issues if the sled only revs to 7000. Pull the airbox and see if the slides are adjusted correctly. Does it start and idle properly?
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Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
Do you have a service manual? Operators Manual does explain how to set carbs and sync them with the oil pump, but the SM is better.
- ihengineer76
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Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
Is the rev limiter unplugged? Those are notorious for issues.
1976 Liquidator - 970 mile raced sled
1975 340/S - I-500 raced sled
1978 440 Liquifire
1975 340/S - I-500 raced sled
1978 440 Liquifire
Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
I pulled the air box and the carbs do have full throttle. I started checking for fuel issues, tank pick up is clean, I pulled the fuel pump apart, I didn't see anything obvious, but I will rebuild it while I have it out.
When I asked about the secondary clutch removal I was wondering how to get it out of the chassis. It doesn't clear the belly pan.
I will check into the rev limiter.
Thanks for the replies.
When I asked about the secondary clutch removal I was wondering how to get it out of the chassis. It doesn't clear the belly pan.
I will check into the rev limiter.
Thanks for the replies.
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Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
Spin the moveable face inward and put a stick of wood or perhaps a screwdriver handle in between the sheaves to reduce the width of the clutch. This permits enough room to clear the side and remove the clutch because the hub will be out of the way.
Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
AirborneX4Special wrote:Spin the moveable face inward and put a stick of wood or perhaps a screwdriver handle in between the sheaves to reduce the width of the clutch. This permits enough room to clear the side and remove the clutch because the hub will be out of the way.
Good idea, Thanks!
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Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
Looks like the cam slider shoes are in good shape on your secondary. The 102 was never enough clutch to handle the LF power long term, but it shouldn't be junk at 1200 miles. Tom has a point with the rev limiter but it can also be the switch behind the throttle pivot pin since the net effect is similar.
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Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
Did you check your plugs? You could be running rich. With mine it's almost always been fuel delivery issues. Check your choke adjustments. I had the same issue on one. It was a choke issue. Would go to 6500 then drop and hover a Lil less. Fixed chokes. Screamed after that
1975 340/s Speed Run Sled
1975 340/s I500 #161
1980 Liquifire SN# 4995 From WA Speed Run Sled
1980 Liquifire SN# 4996 From MN
1983 Sportfire
1984 Liquifire Deep Snow Tunnel 4/6 motor
1984 Sprintfire (2)
***Duelling Deere Garage***
1975 340/s I500 #161
1980 Liquifire SN# 4995 From WA Speed Run Sled
1980 Liquifire SN# 4996 From MN
1983 Sportfire
1984 Liquifire Deep Snow Tunnel 4/6 motor
1984 Sprintfire (2)
***Duelling Deere Garage***
Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
sledhead16 wrote:Did you check your plugs? You could be running rich. With mine it's almost always been fuel delivery issues. Check your choke adjustments. I had the same issue on one. It was a choke issue. Would go to 6500 then drop and hover a Lil less. Fixed chokes. Screamed after that
Yes I did a plug check and the plugs look very good. I also thought the chokes were off, I had the chokes checked out, they were adjusted prior to my ride.
Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
paul are you still running the jd belt you might want to switch to a dayco max 1107 remove the tree nuts on the bumper by the secondary clutch then the secondary clutch will come off with out bending every thing charlie
83 Liquifire
80 Liquifire
81 Sportfire
73 JDX8
Rider
99 Ski Doo 670 HO
80 Liquifire
81 Sportfire
73 JDX8
Rider
99 Ski Doo 670 HO
Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
chaspeg wrote:paul are you still running the jd belt you might want to switch to a dayco max 1107 remove the tree nuts on the bumper by the secondary clutch then the secondary clutch will come off with out bending every thing charlie
Yes I'm running the JD belt, but it still looks good. Are you sure the 1107 belt is the correct number? I come up with a different number, 1078, this belt is a 1/2" shorter than the 1107.
Thanks, Paul
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Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
1107 is the correct belt. 1078 fits Trailfires and Sportfires.
Re: 80 Liquifire Clutch Questions.
Are you guys sure about the belts? I looked at Dayco's website and another site I buy parts from and they both indicate the HP3012 belt (Dayco Max 1078). Theres a 1/2" in length difference.