I give up

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:44 pm

I thought I had my L-fire licked when it came to the exhaust leak at the ball socket. Nope..

New springs, nope..still leaks. Bend the loops back on the Y-pipe for a tighter seal to tighten springs..nope...still leaks.

Sled is now sitting with enough high temp silicone at the ball joint to make valve cover gaskets for 20 cars and 17 trucks. Been drying since 11 am this morning.

427cobra · Post by **427cobra** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:53 pm

I have faith youll get it figured out!! I think mine leaks too. I wonder if it is even possible to have leak free connection????

River Rat · Post by **River Rat** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:08 pm

Paul.. I had a 81 exhaust system here guaranteed not to leak,,but I thru it away

It was welded solid from front to back..Them Iowa farmers know how to fix things..

Frankie

harleysportster · Post by **harleysportster** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:16 pm

Paul,
I'm assuming that you cleaned all the gas/oil residue with a degreaser such as a "brake cleaner".

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:44 pm

Sure did Pat.

Sledsrock · Post by **Sledsrock** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:48 pm

I wonder if you couldn't try to modify a lead donut gasket from another sled to fit the deere? I know my ZR700 I had used a real nice one there and the gasket will form to the metal and take up any space. If you couldn't make one work, maybe try changing the exhaust manifold, maybe it would be a better fit?

jdsledhead · Post by **jdsledhead** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:49 pm

Have you inspected everything real close to make sure there isn't a pin hole right next to the joint? just a thought....

Post by **SKNOWCAT** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:54 pm

I'd blame it on Rainville.
Steve T.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:32 am

The bottom of the ball and socket is where the leak is. My clean motor looks like salt and pepper.

I blame Rainville also!! :lol22:

JDFanPa · Post by **JDFanPa** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:35 am

Heres an idea Paul I think the big reason for the leaks is wear on the socket and the ball. I bet if you know someone who melts lead for sinkers etc what you could do is dip the socket of the pipe in melted lead to line it maybe 1/16" thick or so it would make it leak proof. Maybe as an another option if you knew of an old time body man who did lead filling they could line the joint also this is just some thoughts off the top of my head.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:40 am

Does the joint need movement is my question?

All exhaust components are mounted on the orange rubber pads and left loose at a minimum for movement. I could weld the union solid and loosen up the muffler mounts to body even more for engine twist under loads. Is this a good and practical statement or idea?

Sledsrock · Post by **Sledsrock** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 1:16 am

If you weld it solid I bet your running a chance of it cracking somewhere later on.

Danzig · Post by **Danzig** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 1:34 am

I agree.

Sledsrock · Post by **Sledsrock** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 1:41 am

Just a thought. What if you took a piece of carbon fiber cloth, cut a strip, put high heat silicone on one side and glue it to the flange. Just fold a little excess over the "lip" and mate the 2 surfaces back together? I've used the stuff in muffler packing before and it holds up to heat.... I think it would take up some of the gap in your flange.

JoeRainville · Post by **JoeRainville** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 1:45 am

SKNOWCAT wrote:I'd blame it on Rainville.
Steve T.

Steve is right, its probably my fault.

Since he is full of hot exhaust gas, he should deffinately have a fix for you then! :lol22:

Really though, high temp RTV isn't a bad idea, but I think a "donut" gasket from a Cat might be a good idea too. Are you also sure the muffer isn't plugged with a mouse nest or something?

Good Luck,
-Rainville